I’m already very far behind, so it doesn’t look as though I am going to get to elaborate on my last post, which outlined my activities in Yellowstone. I didn’t care much for Yellowstone anyway; it was essentially a giant Disneyland with real bison. I now have (literally) thousands of pictures which I have to sort through from the last week and a half – but it looks like these are going to have to wait until I get home to get uploaded, as I simply don’t have the time (or place) to sit down and do it here. I haven’t posted lately because I haven’t had time to sit down and write and no cell phone signal with which to send them in.
On Monday, I began a backpacking trip that would take me from Montana into Alberta, Canada. I spent four days and three nights in the backcountry and it was an incredible experience. In the course of these four days, I hiked nearly 40 miles with everything that I would need on my back. Best of all, I emerged in a small town in Canada without a plan or a means with which to get back to the border, which ended up being a fun mini-adventure in itself.
So back to the first day. On Monday, I had to hike nearly 14 miles to reach my campsite. Luckily, the hike was mostly flat, with only moderate elevation gains of a few hundred feet at a time. It also helped that the entire 40 mile hike was between 4,500 and 6,500 feet – where the air was much thicker than on some of my other hikes, which peaked at 10,000 or even 14,000 feet.
Unfortunately, all of these benefits were drastically counterbalanced by a few extra cinderblocks of weight strapped to my back. Because my pack had to carry everything I would be unable to do without for four days, it became commensurably enormous and heavy. Just to give a brief outline; first aid kit, extra socks, tent, sleeping bag, sleeping pad, soft shell, hard shell, heavy fleece, books, food (keeping in mind that you burn far more calories walking all day than you do normally), stove, water, rope, camera and lenses, and on and on. My rough guess is that the pack weighed at least 40 lbs. But it wouldn’t be exciting if it was easy. (There is an ultra-light movement among backpackers, for obvious reasons. I ran into one such follower on the Continental Divide Trail in Grand Lake, CO. The CDT is a 3,300 mile hike. This backpacker had his base pack weight – everything but food and water – down to 12 lbs. They accomplish this by removing all their extra straps, the handles on their toothbrush, tags on clothes, etc, and by buying very, very light specialty gear.)
So the first day, as I mentioned, was a 13.8 mile hike. It was enjoyable, but it would have been even more so had the trail not been washed away by the previous week’s monsoon-type weather – which, as we will see, continued on through my trip as well. (I have spent the last 10 nights outside, and of those, six have culminated in thunderstorms.) The trail was a vile, devilish mixture of mud, rocks,and vegetation, trampled by a few humans and several horses, and topped off with the occasional green gift from said livestock. And intermixed with the more thrilling sight of bear scat and tracks. The hike itself was surprisingly uneventful. The only highlight was a brief run-in with a whitetail deer, which seemed more interested in finding out what I was from an uncomfortably close distance than in running away. Overall, deer in the Parks know that they are in the Parks; that is, they know you cannot shoot them. Therefore, they do not care what you do. Their chief objective is, actually, to annoy the hell out of you. You’ll see what I mean.
The National Park Service has a weird way of handling the backcountry that doesn’t seem obvious, so I’ll go into it a bit. You apply for a permit, (the specifics are different at every park,) and they work out an itinerary for you along your chosen trail that places you at a given campsite on each night. In other words, they reserve a site for you, and you handle the rest. The theory is that if no one reports having seen you at these sites after your family reports you missing, they can mount a rescue operation along your supposed route, within at least a few days.
These campgrounds are unlike any other campground. Even though I knew they were coming, I typically didn’t realize I was there until I walked into the post to which the map was stapled. They usually contain about 3-4 campsites, a food prep area well away from the sites, and a pit toilet. It’s all dispersed over a very large area, (say, 300 yards end-to-end,) so you are essentially still camping in the woods. In tonight’s case, there were no other campers, and hence, I have no fun stories to tell.
But still, there is no escaping the thrilling reality of a trip in the backcountry. Especially a solo hike; while not necessarily intrinsically dangerous, bad decisions when far away from help can easily escalate to form a chain reaction with catastrophic consequences. Typically, these situations are preventable, but the opportunity to truncate the disaster is missed by those who are usually too stubborn to back down in the face of Nature’s superior firepower. A well known example of this sort of self-destructive behavior is the 1996 Everest Expedition, which is recounted in Jon Kroukour’s (his name is hard enough to spell, chances are one in a million I could do it without looking it up,) Into Thin Air. When I entered the backcountry office to get my permit, I was greeted by a poster for a missing person, the subheading of which was “please report any scattered or dispersed parts of"…” followed by a general description of the man and his equipment.
So there is risk, but there is also a substantial reward. The culmination of a day’s hike, while significant in and of itself, is amplified each day as you close in to the ultimate goal; that final step off that last trailhead. Those first 13.8 miles were a good accomplishment; after completing 38 miles, a genuine and uncontrollable grin came over my face. Upon re-crossing the border – and I’ll leave that story for its own day – and returning to find my car… that was a euphoric moment.
Again, following the now established tradition, I’ll leave you with pictures rather than a minute by minute account of every step I took. Unfortunately, I can only include one now, as when I do get a cell signal with which to send this in, anything more than that would get dicey. Again, I’ll post many, many more picture up on the Picasa albums when I get home, because I took hundreds on this hike alone.
A couple quick notes:
As you may have gathered, I have been essentially without an internet connection for the last 10 days, and my cell phone signals have been very spotty at best. I have (hopefully) gotten all of the emails many of you have sent and I appreciate your thoughts, even if I haven’t responded yet.
Finally, this trip is, amazingly, drawing to a close. I am currently about, say, 25 miles north of Ashton, Idaho. I plan on passing through Salt Lake City tomorrow, ( which would be Saturday, maybe spending the night?) and then heading to Arches National Park and Canyonlands. After this I will be swinging back towards home and expect to be back there around August 15th.
Thanks again for following along.